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What the Future of Restaurants Might Look Like

Updated on June 18, 2:11 PM EDT

What You Need To Know

Restaurants across the U.S. are assessing their future now that public dining restrictions have been lifted in most states.

There’s cause for optimism as so many establishments return to 100% capacity. Restaurant bookings rose above pre-pandemic levels nationally, according to Yelp Inc. It reported that a record 3.7 million diners used the service’s platform to book tables in May, a 48% increase, compared to May 2019. (The rise may also result from restaurants that formerly took no reservations adopting the booking site.) Yelp also reported that the number of new openings nationally hit 6,600 in May; the total for three months has exceeded 19,000 as restaurateurs restart stalled projects and take advantage of favorable lease offerings.

The industry faces ongoing challenges. Consumer spending was up in April, to $64.9 billion, but that is $1.3 billion below levels before Covid-19 struck, according to the National Restaurant Association. Staffing challenges plague the industry, especially in big cities such as New York and San Francisco, where seasoned employees left en masse during the pandemic. In such popular summer spots as the Hamptons and vacation spots like Hawaii, the problem is especially acute as a result of issues that range from a lack of reasonable, affordable housing to extreme traffic problems.

Still, as more people get vaccinated and head out to restaurants, and famed dining rooms such as Eleven Madison Park in New York reopen with a waiting list of 15,000 for a table, there’s reason to be hopeful. Speaking at a virtual Bloomberg event, Top Chef judge and Crafted Hospitality owner Tom Colicchio predicted: “You will probably see one of the most interesting, fascinating, creative times in the restaurant industry, ever.”

By The Numbers

  • 1.5 million The number of restaurant jobs still not recovered from pre-Covid levels.
  • $290 billion Estimated losses to restaurant industry from March 2020 to April 2021.
  • 16% Percentage of the 90,000 shuttered restaurants that were in business for at least 30 years

Why It Matters

An estimated 90,000 restaurants in the U.S. remain closed permanently or for the long-term as a result of the pandemic. That represents around 14%—a less apocalyptic number than early estimates, which ranged from one-third of the country’s restaurants to 75% of them.

It’s a sobering number, nonetheless. Annual closings typically number 50,000, and the majority of closed businesses were established spots that had been in business for 16 years. A survey by Lending Tree reported that half of the respondents said a restaurant they loved had closed because of the pandemic; in the Northeast, that figure was 65%.

Now consider that in addition to tens of millions of direct restaurant jobs, which accounted for almost 4% of U.S. gross domestic product before the pandemic, workers at such purveyors as farms, slaughterhouses, butchers, and wineries are affected, too. Upscale dining rooms help support related businesses such as florists and dry cleaners.

In many ways, the crisis has laid bare how broken parts of the industry are, from supply chains to service fees. Evolutions that might have happened over years or longer have been compressed into a few months. New business models—from added outdoor seating and ghost kitchens to programs like groceries and meal kits—were quickly introduced.

As Danny Meyer, one of America’s foremost restaurateurs, put it early in the pandemic, “Places [are] paying more than they can afford, talent is not making the living they need to make, while the restaurant isn’t making margins they need to make. The system needs to change, or this crisis is only accelerating what we were heading for, anyway.”

Fast forward to spring 2021, when Meyer, now chairman of the New York Economic Development Corp., told Bloomberg that his restaurants were “halfway back from the pandemic.” It’s a start.

    Social distancing and higher labor costs will force radical and devastating change on the industry. 

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