Lunch Break

Yotam Ottolenghi Has Reinvented Mac and Cheese

In his new cookbook, the culinary leader highlights what the classic “has been missing all along.”

Ottolenghi’s macaroni and cheese dish benefits from bright za’atar pesto and crispy onions.

Photographer: Elena Heatherwick, of courtesy Clarkson Potter

Editor’s note: As we leave our home kitchens to dine out more, the weekly Lunch Break column has evolved to highlight dishes from a variety of sources: a new or reopened restaurant; a newsmaking person, place, or recipe; or, of course, a great cookbook.

Pasta is a food that makes most people look backward. The best-loved versions are ones made in the past, by someone’s grandmother or great aunt. No one likes to see the words “new” and “improved” in front of “mac and cheese.”