A private dining room at American Express’s Centurion New York restaurant, located on the 55th floor of the One Vanderbilt tower.

A private dining room at American Express’s Centurion New York restaurant, located on the 55th floor of the One Vanderbilt tower.

Photographer: Gabby Jones/Bloomberg
Critic

What It’s Like to Dine at Centurion New York, AmEx’s Black Card Clubhouse

The city’s most impressive new power lunch spot is only open to a select audience.

For the best odds of getting into New York’s most exclusive new restaurant, you need to be a very specific type of person: an American Express Centurion Card holder.

Opened in mid-March, Centurion New York is effectively a dining club for those with the coveted black card. It occupies the 17,000-square-foot 55th floor of the glossy new One Vanderbilt skyscraper, towering over Manhattan’s Grand Central Terminal. The constantly evolving menu is by Daniel Boulud, and the food delivers enough drama and decadence to pull your attention away from the knockout city views — a panoramic rarity in Midtown dining, unless you count a bar mitzvah at the Rainbow Room.